Fast Forward 1 – Part 2

Tonight was the second session of the Fast Forward 1 course at Sportrock. We started off reviewing the techniques we learned last week, including shifting our weight to keep our center of gravity in the right place, and using sticky hands and silent feet (the latter of which was my biggest focus area for the week). I did a MUCH better job planting my feet and leaving them, no longer bouncing and testing the hold before putting my weight on that foot. Happy feet, get ANGRY! (or sad – just not happy!)

After our short review session we moved on to sequencing moves in bouldering problems (something I had been looking forward to). The other two individuals taking the class with me have a lot more experience in top roping and trad climbing, so we started off easy on the bouldering problems so that technique could be a primary focus (E4 through E6, and a V0). While they were easy problems, I did find myself thinking in new ways while attempting to keep my center of gravity spread amongst all my limbs and making moves using the least amount of energy necessary. This was reassuring, as it means I am beginning to use the knowledge I have recently learned.

Since all of the bouldering section was closed for the upcoming Friction Competition, we moved to a top-rope problem that was rated a V.10+ with a pretty good set of opening moves rated at a V1 or V1+. At first glance, most of the holds looked like pretty good two finger pockets. On the first attempt, I quickly discovered they were good two finger crimps, which made it a bit more difficult than expected. I was able to muscle my way through parts of it the first time through the route, and the second time I through I started to realize where and how important it was to shift my feet so that my weight was centered. Wouldn’t you know it, the route was easier when your weight is centered properly!

Our homework for the week is to sequence five bouldering problems, to get us ready for sequencing full 40 ft. routes next week (something I’m a little hesitant about, seeing as my endurance is nothing to brag about. I guess that is where the techniques I have learned will really come into play).

As I mentioned, the Friction Bouldering Series Finale is this weekend, December 13th, at the Sportrock Sterling location. I would love to compete, but have a MSVA concert that evening and can’t dedicate the evening to the competition. I am hoping to make it over there for a couple of hours with my camera and take some photos. I have never photographed climbing and bouldering before, so I’m looking forward to seeing what kind of results I end up with. As a result of the competition, I probably won’t make it back over to Sportrock to climb until Sunday afternoon. Sunday afternoon is going to rock though, as there will be 100% new bouldering routes to solve!