Well, tonight was the third and final session of the Fast Forward 1 class at Sportrock. The techniques and skills we had learned in the first two sessions were to prepare us for the this session, where we would be sequencing routes on the 40 ft. wall. As I mentioned last week, I was a little nervous about top-roping because I had no idea what my level of endurance was and how that would play out when climbing a 40 ft. route instead of 12 ft. bouldering problem.

We started out the session by “turning in” our homework assignment, of sequencing five bouldering problems. We were asked to warm-up on an easy problem (V0 or V1), and then look at attacking our nemesis, or a problem that we had trouble competing or had not yet completed. I had a particular V4 in mind, but the area was a bit crowded so I looked at a V2 that had a difficult start, and an all-around challenging V3 that wrapped around the stalactite. Patrick (the instructor) had a lot of useful tips on the problem areas I was having on those bouldering routes; both why the problem existed and what steps I could take to resolve the problem. As usual, it all came down to positioning and transfer of weight, at which point the solution became clear and the problems were no more.

After our short bouldering session we moved on to sequencing routes on the main wall. Patrick explained the importance of visualizing and planning the entire route before starting so that any surprises you may run into can be dealt with more easily because you aren’t wasting time and energy on the easy moves. After splitting into two groups of two, we started out with a 5.7 on one of the easy walls. I went first. I worked the route with little difficulty, focusing largely on sticky hands and silent feet (foot work is always critical). After completing that route, I switched places with the other group and climbed the 5.6 they were working on. Naturally, it was easier than the 5.7 I had just climbed.

After the first two climbs up the wall, Patrick was going to belay for me on the third, which was a 5.7 on a wall with a small overhang about two thirds of the way up. I had just watched someone else do it and was able to get up the route with ease; I don’t think Patrick even had to help me through any of it.

For the last climb, Patrick wanted to put me on something a little more difficult – something that would force me to do some creative footwork. We moved over to a 5.8 on a wall with a slight inversion for about one third of the route. Unlike the other routes, which were marked “any feet” (meaning you can use any holds you want for your feet), this route was marked for both hands and feet. While I hadn’t climbed a 5.8 at Sportrock yet, I was looking forward to it. I mapped out as much as I could in advance (I have a hard time remembering everything I map out from the ground), I started on my way up. There was only one particularly tricky section that required some fancy footwork and weight transfer to set yourself up properly for the hand holds. Patrick had to verbally help me through this section a bit (I was missing a few of the foot holds), but I got through it without too much difficulty. It was pretty satisfying to know I could climb a 5.8 with ease.

According to the chart on the wall, someone who is consistently completing V3 bouldering problems should be able to complete routes rated 5.11 to 5.12. This sounds about right as I could complete a 5.8 with ease, even with my endurance being built more for bouldering than top roping. However, after taking the FF1 course, I’m going to start making a point to spend more time top-roping so that I can build up that endurance and hopefully get myself to a point where I can complete 5.12s.

Oh, and that V4 bouldering problem that is my current nemesis? I tried it again before leaving Sportrock… with no luck. Second to last move is giving me a lot of problems – I can’t quite figure out how to get my weight positioned to stick the move. I’m hoping the problem will stay up past Christmas, so that I can give it a go with my new shoes.