Moving On Up: 5.11-
Just a quick update tonight since I’m really tired and want to crawl into bed. Went to Sportrock again today (third day in a row), seeing as I had some free time and felt like I still had some strength left in my fingers.
Started off climbing 5.9s as usual, and then climbed the 5.10- I have done repeatedly over the last two days. Sportrock was quite crowded for a while today, so ropes were in short supply and we didn’t feel like searching or waiting for another rope to free up so we stayed where we were. My brother climbed the 5.10- after me (and completed it!), and I was eyeing a 5.11- marked with bright yellow tape (easy to see!). I decided to give it a whirl.
The start was pretty basic with lots of crimps and lots of footwork, nothing too crazy. Technique and finger strength were needed the most. About two thirds of the way up I did have to stop and reassess what I was doing, as I couldn’t figure out how to make the next stretched out move. Took a minute, rested my arms, chalked up, and finished the problem without too much difficulty. So while I didn’t flash it, I did complete it and feel confident that the next time I get on that route I can do it without having to stop.
Also spent a few minutes working on a V5 that starts with a big dyno to a double horn (don’t miss or you smash into the stalactite), and then moves up and around to the top from there. It’s pretty cool, I must admit. I’m fairly confident I can complete the problem, as I’ve gotten the dyno (check your swing!) and the following move, but simply didn’t have the finger strength to make the last couple moves. It requires some fancy heel/toe hooking on the double horn in order to finish it up, and is quite entertaining to watch. Perhaps next week I can send the route and add another V5 to my completed list.
Posted in Daily Thoughts
January 7th, 2009 at 11:44 pm
[...] In my last post I talked a little about a V5 I had been working, that starts with a nice dyno to a double horn and then moves up and around to the top. The most difficult part of the problem is not the dyno itself but the weight transfer that follows. After you make the two moves after the dyno, your are essentially laying on your back with your feet hooked into the double horn you made the dyno to and your hands about shoulder width apart on large crimps. You have to move your left foot over to the stalactite so that you can control your right foot over (which is one stretched out move). Move the right hand over and make the next pinch, then top out. I had never been able to complete that weight transfer… until tonight. No doubt it was partially due to the small crowd that had collected (everyone loves watching a dyno). I made the weight transfer, stuck the pinch, and then made the last move to top out. I’m sure there was a huge grin on my face after that one. I tried again for kicks, but my fingers were shot. [...]