http://www.thechalkbag.com/2009/01/moving-on-up-511/ Bouldering Blog for the Casual Climber Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:13:22 -0500 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 http://www.thechalkbag.com/2009/01/moving-on-up-511/comment-page-1/#comment-9 The Chalk Bag » V3s and V4s and V5s, Oh My! Thu, 08 Jan 2009 04:44:20 +0000 http://www.thechalkbag.com/?p=187#comment-9 [...] In my last post I talked a little about a V5 I had been working, that starts with a nice dyno to a double horn and then moves up and around to the top. The most difficult part of the problem is not the dyno itself but the weight transfer that follows. After you make the two moves after the dyno, your are essentially laying on your back with your feet hooked into the double horn you made the dyno to and your hands about shoulder width apart on large crimps. You have to move your left foot over to the stalactite so that you can control your right foot over (which is one stretched out move). Move the right hand over and make the next pinch, then top out. I had never been able to complete that weight transfer… until tonight. No doubt it was partially due to the small crowd that had collected (everyone loves watching a dyno). I made the weight transfer, stuck the pinch, and then made the last move to top out. I’m sure there was a huge grin on my face after that one. I tried again for kicks, but my fingers were shot. [...] [...] In my last post I talked a little about a V5 I had been working, that starts with a nice dyno to a double horn and then moves up and around to the top. The most difficult part of the problem is not the dyno itself but the weight transfer that follows. After you make the two moves after the dyno, your are essentially laying on your back with your feet hooked into the double horn you made the dyno to and your hands about shoulder width apart on large crimps. You have to move your left foot over to the stalactite so that you can control your right foot over (which is one stretched out move). Move the right hand over and make the next pinch, then top out. I had never been able to complete that weight transfer… until tonight. No doubt it was partially due to the small crowd that had collected (everyone loves watching a dyno). I made the weight transfer, stuck the pinch, and then made the last move to top out. I’m sure there was a huge grin on my face after that one. I tried again for kicks, but my fingers were shot. [...]

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