Today was the second of three sessions for Lead Climbing I class at Sportrock. Everyone in the class knew we would be experiencing falls today, which I must admit I was both excited and nervous about. I knew it couldn’t be that hard, but having never actually taken a “free-fall” or belayed someone falling on lead, I didn’t know exactly what to expect.

We split up into groups of three, and since there were two no-shows today, the group I was part of consisted of Rick, Frank (the instructor), and myself. Frank was obviously on the top-rope safety line. Rick climbed first, which put me on belay. After doing a quick warmup on a 5.8, we moved on to falling. We were told to fall three times, the first with the clip at approximately waist height. Now, Rick has about 30-40 lbs. on me, so I knew I would be going up the wall when he fell. Sure enough, he came almost down to the first clip (he fell from the third clip), and I was about 6 feet up the wall.

The second fall would be about a foot higher, but Rick went a bit further and had the clip at about his knees. Fortunately, he moved up to clip four before taking this fall, because I was up into the first clip about 9 feet off the floor. Surprising, even though I knew it was coming. The third fall was even more fun. Pulled me right up into the first clip, and I could have reached up and grabbed his leg, haha. There were smiles all around. Even Jeremy, one of the gym staff who is probably one of the best climbers at the gym (he sets a lot of the routes), smiled and said, “nice work dude.”

Then it was my turn. Falling with the clip was at my waste was no big deal – very similar to falling on top-rope. Falling with the clip at my knees was a little more hair raising, but still felt controlled and comfortable (of course, Rick is planted on the floor and not having any problems). Then I climbed up even further and had the clip at my feet, as if I would be getting ready to clip into the next quickdraw. I looked down and thought, “this is going to be one heck of a fall… here we go!”

And I let go.

Free-falling 10 feet is an interesting experience.

Then you smash feet-first into the wall.

I probably only fell a total of 15 feet when all was said and done (a lot less than Rick fell since I don’t have the mass to pull him off the floor), but for my third fall lead climbing, it was pretty exciting. I had to stop for a minute or so and shake out the adrenaline, as my arms and legs had a little bit of shake to them.

We finished up the next 45 minutes lead climbing some 5.8′s in the cave, which I’d been wanting to do for a LONG time. Next Monday I should have my lead climbing certification, so I can lead climb without the supervision of an instructor, and start getting more practice under my belt before Atlanta in September!

The instructor, Frank, has been climbing for about 16 years and is very knowledgeable on everything climbing related. He talked for the first 45 minutes of class or so, which was a little painful for me. Most of what he went over I was already familiar with, but I guess hearing things a couple times helps to keep the basics fresh. After showing us the basics of clipping quick draws, we got to practice ourselves doing 50 clips with each hand, each direction (200 clips total!). That helped instill the motion of clipping to make it feel more natural – the last thing you want to be sweating about is the best way to clip into your quick draw!

We broke into two groups and got on the wall, which I was really excited about. We did, of course, have top-rope safety lines since sport leading was new to everyone but Rick. Rick and I climbed a 5.8 and 5.9 leading without taking any falls (I did back clip one quick draw, but shhhhh, I fixed it!). It was a really interesting experience, but I enjoyed it thoroughly. Fortunately, stopping on holds to clip into quick draws was not difficult for me because I have been focusing heavily on taking breaks in the middle of climbs to shake out arms, so I only had to change my routine slightly:

1. find hold
2. shake out arm
3. clip
4. shake out other arm
5. climb on

Belaying for someone who is lead climbing is still a little worry of mine, primarily in the falling category. Since we were on top-rope safety lines Monday (and nobody fell), we didn’t get a chance to practice falls from either the belayer or climber position. I know it’s going to be a different experience. But there are two more classes left in the session, and guess what we do next week? FALLS. And I know they make you take some good falls to get the feeling. I’m excited, and a little on the nervous side as well.

If all goes well with falling, Rick and I will probably take our Lead Climbing Certification Test at the end of the evening next Monday (we graduate from pink tags to yellow tags!). Rick will pass the test no problem, and I don’t think I’ll have any issues either. I know the basics, and it’s just a matter of practicing.

Sportrock recently launched a Ning Network for internet-savvy individuals to chat, share, and generally “commune” in one convenient location. So tomorrow I’m meeting up with a new climbing partner for a few hours! Should be a lot of fun. I know a lot of people at Sportrock, but because Jonathan and I always climb together I rarely coordinate a climbing schedule with any of them. Jonathan and I are both looking to increase our trusted climbing partner database (another reason he is taking the Lead Class in Alexandria), and while I know it’s kind of lame, it’s easier for me to meet and hook up with climbers on a network like Ning than it is for me to do in person.

We started out the session by “turning in” our homework assignment, of sequencing five bouldering problems. We were asked to warm-up on an easy problem (V0 or V1), and then look at attacking our nemesis, or a problem that we had trouble competing or had not yet completed. I had a particular V4 in mind, but the area was a bit crowded so I looked at a V2 that had a difficult start, and an all-around challenging V3 that wrapped around the stalactite. Patrick (the instructor) had a lot of useful tips on the problem areas I was having on those bouldering routes; both why the problem existed and what steps I could take to resolve the problem. As usual, it all came down to positioning and transfer of weight, at which point the solution became clear and the problems were no more.

After our short bouldering session we moved on to sequencing routes on the main wall. Patrick explained the importance of visualizing and planning the entire route before starting so that any surprises you may run into can be dealt with more easily because you aren’t wasting time and energy on the easy moves. After splitting into two groups of two, we started out with a 5.7 on one of the easy walls. I went first. I worked the route with little difficulty, focusing largely on sticky hands and silent feet (foot work is always critical). After completing that route, I switched places with the other group and climbed the 5.6 they were working on. Naturally, it was easier than the 5.7 I had just climbed.

After the first two climbs up the wall, Patrick was going to belay for me on the third, which was a 5.7 on a wall with a small overhang about two thirds of the way up. I had just watched someone else do it and was able to get up the route with ease; I don’t think Patrick even had to help me through any of it.

For the last climb, Patrick wanted to put me on something a little more difficult – something that would force me to do some creative footwork. We moved over to a 5.8 on a wall with a slight inversion for about one third of the route. Unlike the other routes, which were marked “any feet” (meaning you can use any holds you want for your feet), this route was marked for both hands and feet. While I hadn’t climbed a 5.8 at Sportrock yet, I was looking forward to it. I mapped out as much as I could in advance (I have a hard time remembering everything I map out from the ground), I started on my way up. There was only one particularly tricky section that required some fancy footwork and weight transfer to set yourself up properly for the hand holds. Patrick had to verbally help me through this section a bit (I was missing a few of the foot holds), but I got through it without too much difficulty. It was pretty satisfying to know I could climb a 5.8 with ease.

According to the chart on the wall, someone who is consistently completing V3 bouldering problems should be able to complete routes rated 5.11 to 5.12. This sounds about right as I could complete a 5.8 with ease, even with my endurance being built more for bouldering than top roping. However, after taking the FF1 course, I’m going to start making a point to spend more time top-roping so that I can build up that endurance and hopefully get myself to a point where I can complete 5.12s.

Oh, and that V4 bouldering problem that is my current nemesis? I tried it again before leaving Sportrock… with no luck. Second to last move is giving me a lot of problems – I can’t quite figure out how to get my weight positioned to stick the move. I’m hoping the problem will stay up past Christmas, so that I can give it a go with my new shoes.

After our short review session we moved on to sequencing moves in bouldering problems (something I had been looking forward to). The other two individuals taking the class with me have a lot more experience in top roping and trad climbing, so we started off easy on the bouldering problems so that technique could be a primary focus (E4 through E6, and a V0). While they were easy problems, I did find myself thinking in new ways while attempting to keep my center of gravity spread amongst all my limbs and making moves using the least amount of energy necessary. This was reassuring, as it means I am beginning to use the knowledge I have recently learned.

Since all of the bouldering section was closed for the upcoming Friction Competition, we moved to a top-rope problem that was rated a V.10+ with a pretty good set of opening moves rated at a V1 or V1+. At first glance, most of the holds looked like pretty good two finger pockets. On the first attempt, I quickly discovered they were good two finger crimps, which made it a bit more difficult than expected. I was able to muscle my way through parts of it the first time through the route, and the second time I through I started to realize where and how important it was to shift my feet so that my weight was centered. Wouldn’t you know it, the route was easier when your weight is centered properly!

Our homework for the week is to sequence five bouldering problems, to get us ready for sequencing full 40 ft. routes next week (something I’m a little hesitant about, seeing as my endurance is nothing to brag about. I guess that is where the techniques I have learned will really come into play).

As I mentioned, the Friction Bouldering Series Finale is this weekend, December 13th, at the Sportrock Sterling location. I would love to compete, but have a MSVA concert that evening and can’t dedicate the evening to the competition. I am hoping to make it over there for a couple of hours with my camera and take some photos. I have never photographed climbing and bouldering before, so I’m looking forward to seeing what kind of results I end up with. As a result of the competition, I probably won’t make it back over to Sportrock to climb until Sunday afternoon. Sunday afternoon is going to rock though, as there will be 100% new bouldering routes to solve!

The course instructor is a guy named Patrick, and he really knows his stuff. We spent the entire two hours working on technique, doing traverse routes across the wall. I didn’t realize how sloppy my technique had gotten, particularly my foot work (I have “Happy Feet”, because I don’t plant and trust but jump and wiggle around a lot). I think the largest factor contributing to my “Happy Feet” is my worn, purple 5.10 climbing shoes. Having just gotten back into climbing, my feet have slipped off many holds due to poor traction and no edging ability, and as a result I test every foot hold two or three times before putting all of my weight on the hold, and then I’m quick to move from it if the hold is less than ideal. That was my biggest problem of the evening, and I am glad it was pointed out to me.

My homework for the week is to practice my technique and do at least 5 wall traverses the next time I’m at Sportrock. Start with center of gravity distributed evenly > shift weight to right side of body > move left foot > move left hand > shift weight to left side of body > move right foot > move right hand > distribute weight and center of gravity.  Repeat (or reverse if moving the other direction).  Same applies for moving up the wall.

Sounds easy, right?  In theory, it is.  But it is a lot to think about in the middle of a climb, so that means I need to ingrain it into my movement and technique so it comes naturally.

PS – I passed my belay certification with little difficulty. There were a few things Sportrock does differently than the way I learned it at JMU, but I was shown the differences and told that either my way or their way works (I just had to do it their way to pass the test). I will probably make a point to practice and use their techniques, just to avoid any potential conflicts.